Why Should You Buy a MPPT Charge Controller Rather Regular one for Your Solar PV System

MPPT (maximum power point tracker) is a device which is nothing but electronic DC to DC conversion system – optimizes the match between the solar battery (PV panels), and the battery bank or utility grid. To place it merely, they convert the high voltage DC output from solar panels (and some wind generators) down to the lower voltage required to charge batteries.

Solar cells don’t seem to be terribly sensible neither are batteries – in reality, batteries are downright stupid. Most PV panels are designed to place out a nominal 12 volts. In reality, the majority “12-volt” solar panels are designed to place out from 16 to 18 volts. The matter is that a nominal 12-volt battery is pretty near to actual 12 volts – 10.5 to 12.7 volts, reckoning on the state of charge. Beneath charge, most batteries need from around 13.2 to 14.4 volts to totally charge – quite a bit completely different than what most panels are designed to place out. Thus currently we’ve got this neat 130-watt solar array. It’s rated at 130 watts at a specific voltage and current (7.39 amps times 17.6 volts = 130 watts).

WHY DO 130 WATTS NOT EQUAL 130 WATTS AND WHERE DID MY WATTS GO?

So what will be the action when you connect this 130-watt panel to your battery through a regular charge controller?

UNFORTUNATELY, WE DO NOT GET 130 WATTS.

Panel gives 7.4 amps and the battery is setting at 12 volts underneath charge: 7.4 amps times 12 volts = 88.8 watts and 44 watts are lost – however, generation is about 130 Watts. Those 41 watts aren’t going anywhere; it simply isn’t being made as a result of there’s a poor match between the panel and battery. With a really low battery, say 10.5 volts, it’s even worse – you’ll be losing the maximum amount as 35% (11 volts x 7.4 amps = 81.4 watts. You lost concerning 48 watts.)

One answer you would possibly consider – why not simply create panels in order that they place out 14 volts some to match the battery?

The array is rated at 130 watts in full daylight at a specific temperature (STC – standard test conditions). Now as soon as the temperature of the solar array is increased, you do not get 17.4 volts. At the temperatures seen in several hot climate areas, you may get beneath 17 volts. If you started with a 15-volt panel (like a number of the supposed “self-regulating” panels), you’re in bother, as you will not have enough voltage to place a charge into the battery. Solar panels need to have enough leeway in-built to perform beneath the worst of conditions. The panel can simply sit there wanting dumb, and your batteries can get even stupider than usual and nobody likes a stupid battery.

What is Maximum Power Point Tracking?

There is some confusion about the term “tracking”:

Panel tracking – this is often wherever the panels are on a mount that follows the sun. These optimize output by following the sun across the sky for max daylight. These usually offer you a few 15% increases in winter and up to a 35% increase in summer.

This is simply the other of the seasonal variation for MPPT controllers. Since panel temperatures are a lot of lower in winter, they place out additional power. And winter is typically after you want the foremost power from your solar panels attributable to shorter days.

Maximum Power Point Tracking is electronic chase – typically digital system. The charge controller appearance at the output of the panels and compares it to the battery voltage. It then figures out what’s the simplest power that the panel will place to charge the battery. Charge controller works on it and makes it to best voltage for inducing most current into the battery. MPPT’s are around 93-97% economical within the conversion. You sometimes get a 20 to 45% power gain in winter and 10-15% in summer. Actual gain will vary wide relying weather, temperature, battery state of charge, and different factors.

It is the time wherever most outlet pursuit comes in. Suppose battery is low, at 12 volts and MPPT takes that 17.6 volts at 7.4 amps to converts it down in order that what the battery gets is currently 10.8 amps at 12 volts. Currently, you continue to have virtually 130 watts, and everybody is happy.

If you need 100% power conversion then you’d get around 11.3 amps at 11.5 volts. Now it feeds the battery the next voltage to force the amps in. This is very simplified rationalization – but in actual truth is different. An output of the MPPT charge controller would possibly very regularly to regulate for obtaining the utmost amps into the battery.